Cajun Chicken Stew

Not for the fat conscious. But everytime I make this it reminds me of where I grew up. No, not some farm or the bayou. More like a small industrial town in West Louisiana and the suburbs of New Orleans.

Note: Make sure that roux is cooked thoroughly or the stew will taste like raw flour. I also take most of the skin off the chicken, leaving only a few pieces with skin on.

3 to 6 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 (3- to 31/2-lb) chicken, cut into serving pieces
21/2 teaspoons salt
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1 medium onion, chopped
1 medium green bell pepper, chopped
1 celery rib, chopped
3 cups water
1/4 teaspoon cayenne, or to taste
3/4 cup thinly sliced scallion greens
Hot cooked rice

Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a 4- to 5-quart heavy pot (preferably cast-iron) over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking. Pat chicken dry and sprinkle with salt. Brown chicken in 4 batches, turning, about 5 minutes per batch, transferring as browned to a large bowl.

Add enough of remaining oil to pot to total 1/4 cup fat, then stir in flour with a flat metal or wooden spatula and cook over moderately low heat, scraping back and forth constantly (not stirring), until roux is the color of milk chocolate, 10 to 20 minutes. Add onion, bell pepper, and celery and cook, scraping back and forth occasionally, until onion is softened, about 8 minutes.

Add water to roux mixture and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally until roux is incorporated. (Roux will appear curdled initially, but will come together as it reaches a boil.) Add chicken and any juices accumulated in bowl, then simmer, partially covered, until chicken is cooked through, 30 to 35 minutes. Stir in cayenne, scallion greens, and salt to taste and serve over rice.